The route
We meet at Echo Beach about thirty-five minutes before sunset. The first ten minutes are on the rock ledges at the southern end — sitting close, foreheads together, the white water exploding a safe distance behind you — while the light is still bright enough to hold detail in the waves. Then we come down onto the sand: a slow walk along the waterline, one of you pulling the other towards the wash, a frame with the surf behind and your faces lit from the side by the low sun. As the sun touches the sea we turn you towards it for silhouettes. We stay ten minutes past sunset for the blue hour, with the strings of lights along the beach bars behind you and a soft flash to keep your faces warm. With an extra hour ($100) we begin on a paddy lane in Padonan or Tibubeneng while the light is still high, and drive five minutes to the coast.












