The route
We meet on Jalan Raya Ubud at the café terrace in front of Pura Taman Saraswati, where the walkway runs between two ponds of lotus towards the temple gate. The first frames are there, from the public path: the two of you small against the brick and carving, then closer, with the leaves and flowers in the foreground. We do not climb onto the temple steps or enter the inner yard. From there it is a two-minute walk past the palace walls, still in shade, and into Jalan Kajeng, a narrow lane paved with stones carved with names, lined with family gates and frangipani. The rest of the half hour is walking frames — holding hands down the lane, a stop in a doorway, a coffee at a warung counter. With an extra hour, the lane leads on to the rice fields where the town ends.












