The route
Take the temple-gate version, the one we plan most carefully. We meet at your hotel around 6:15 and drive south through Mas, the woodcarvers’ village, to Batuan, where the village temple has one of the finest carved gateways near Ubud. At the entrance you put on a sarong and sash — lent at the gate against a donation — and the half hour runs from the outside in: first the full gate from low down, so its two halves frame the sky; then you on the steps, small against the stone; then closer portraits by the carved walls of the outer courtyard, where the morning light comes in sideways. If the women of the village arrive with offerings, we step aside and wait; that minute often gives the best candid frame of the morning. With an extra hour ($100), we finish on the open rice fields behind Mas on the way back.












